Word: dessert
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...posh restaurant in most of the cities where the film was shown. The meal, with its turtle soup (real or mock), its blini pancakes with caviar, the cailles en sarcophage -- quails with truffles and foie gras in a "sarcophagus" of puff pastry -- and the yeasty rum-drenched baba dessert, has become a classic staple at Petrossian in New York City, at $125 with the wines or $90 without...
...industrial stove, with a wall of homemade preserves behind her and old-fashioned baskets above, Martha Stewart is right where she belongs -- in her big country kitchen. She is spinning sugar, a complex task that will result in a haze of edible angel hair adorning a dessert of red currant ice cream in brandy-snap cups. As she slings the liquid sugar onto a laundry rack with a flick of her whisk, Stewart effortlessly alternates advice ("The hot sugar can get stuck in your cats' fur. Keep them out of the room") and anecdotes ("I forgot to buy regular squares...
Nationwide, 42% of Americans admit they ordered dessert more than once a ! month last year, according to Restaurants & Institutions magazine, up from 17% the year before. But the boom is not confined to eating out. Supermarket bakery sales were up 21% in 1986 and '87. And bakeries are bursting with business. "Desserts in restaurants are only half the loaf," affirms Elliott Medrich, co-owner of Cocolat, a San Francisco Bay-area chocolate shop renowned for its truffles. "The real dessert action is in the high end of take-away- food places or for people cooking at home...
...reserve their choices before ordering dinner because they know we run out of certain things," says Sam Rubin, owner of the seafood restaurant John Clancy's in Manhattan, where individual lemon meringue tarts ($6) and dense, moist chocolate velvet cake ($6) are among the first to go. Another trend: dessert samplers, with an assortment of up to seven different confections. Joyce Goldstein, chef-owner of San Francisco's Square One, describes her $6.50 version as "a ritual platter, a little orgy...
...paid in recent years. At the Culinary Arts Division of Johnson & Wales University in Providence, a two-year pastry program that began with 13 students in 1983 now has 208 who are learning to perfect such all-American favorites as cheesecake (the choice of one out of four restaurant dessert eaters), apple pie, fruit tarts and chocolate everything. "Making pastry requires creativity," says Arlene Chorney, an administrator at the school. "It's edible...