Word: diner
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None of the ingredients is discernibly Japanese. And few customers would guess that the presentation derives from a kaiseki concept involving twin peaks hugging a waterfall. "A diner might not recognize the Japanese influence," says Nish, surveying his work in the kitchen of March, his exclusive Manhattan restaurant. "But the influence is significant...
...same could be said of the New York restaurant scene. Over the past decade, Japanese cuisine has seeped beyond the midtown sushi bars and into restaurants no diner would label Japanese, where the chefs are blond and the menus are in English. Kitchens are likely to begin a meal with salted edamame (soybean) in place of dinner rolls, serve fish raw rather than deep-fried and use soba instead of linguine. Sometimes the influence is as subtle as a drop of lemony ponzu whisked into a vinaigrette; other times it's as in-your-face as mashed potatoes creamed with...
...Bond Street, rail-thin servers dressed in black glide around the three-story space, carrying lacquered trays of fanciful sushi combinations no Japanese diner would recognize. The sushi chefs, young Japanese expats, add to the din by shouting orders in unison. A Hispanic chef creates the hot entrées - like soba risotto in smoked-trout butter under a mountain of shaved bonito flakes. "You see," says Moore proudly, "it's nothing like those places in midtown...
Just before the final shootout in Brother, the yakuza played by Takeshi Kitano walks into a diner out in the California desert. The old man behind the counter takes a long look at him and says, "You Japanese are very inscrutable...
...Brother, Aniki hands a wad of money to the old man behind the counter. "For the repairs," he says, and walks out the door to be mowed down in gunfire that will obliterate the diner. Aniki may be a homicidal-suicidal yakuza, but you have to admire a man who leaves...