Word: dior
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...with the bottom line." The pressure to create something new, however, is intensified by the pressure to move the huge corporate machine. Even John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier, both radical creative catalysts, have had to conform to the corporate spirit of our times. In Galliano's show for Dior, streamlined tweed suits and pared-down chiffon evening dresses in pale shades of gray and pink replaced his signature theatrics...
...York City's Parsons. A whole new breed of fashion influencers are formed at hard-core business schools like Harvard, HEC, ESSEC and Bocconi where the syllabus doesn't include patternmaking but rather an altogether different kind of intangible skill set, namely the ability to manage intensely creative talent. Dior president Sidney Toledano, a graduate of the top French engineering school ECP, compares the structure of his company and his role within it to a nuclear power plant: the brand is the sun, the source of raw energy, the designer supplies the radium to set off fusion, and those highly...
Toledano has been very successful as Dior's head plant manager: ever since he reined in John Galliano in 1998, sales have tripled and, at $825.7 million in 2005, are edging toward the $1 billion mark. Of course, back in 1997 containing and ultimately commercializing Galliano was a long shot considering the designer's past. As fashion's brilliant wild man known for exceptional creativity and pitiful financial results, he had seen backers pull the plug and had been penniless twice...
...followed by a blind date. Sidney Toledano first scouted out Galliano in a rundown studio in a rough part of Paris. Toledano was so impressed, he requested an invitation to sit in the back row, unobserved, at Galliano's next show. It was arranged that Toledano would first meet Dior menswear designer Hedi Slimane in a café (they talked for four hours...
...Yurman Albion black onyx and diamond ring davidyurman.com) Cartier Panther yellow gold and black lacquer ring cartier.com) Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière leather hard-case wristlet (Barneys New York, 212-826-8900); Valentino satin-embellished sandals (Valentino, 800-997-0140); La D de Dior gold watch with sun-brushed dial, crocodile strap and diamond bezel dior.com