Word: dior
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Designer JOHN GALLIANO, who now heads the house of Christian Dior, was recently knighted by Queen Elizabeth, but during one of the first shows of Paris fashion week, the designer's mind seemed to be everywhere but England. His clothes, which drew inspiration from Peru, Mongolia, India and Russia, were relatively tame compared with Galliano's usual antics. But they delighted the fashion press, which was unexcited by the collections in Milan. The Dior headwear shown here may be a bit extravagant for city dwellers, but it should help keep llama herders braving cold weather in the Andes toasty...
...about just sneakers anymore; it's about style, which is why the glossy fashion magazine W featured Christian Dior clothes with Vans sneakers in its February issue. It's also why high-end labels such as Gucci and DKNY intend to win over fans by peddling shoes that look perfect for the amateur athlete and are priced for the full-time debutante. Prada, for example, has a line of sneakers, made of canvas with tread soles and laces, that still sport the Prada logo. So who cares if they offer little boost on the basketball court...
When the couturier Christian Dior died suddenly of a heart attack at 57, a jittery, bespectacled Algerian-born 21-year-old had to put the Dior show together. He came up with the trapeze, a dress that by dint of its intricate silk, tulle and horsehair-hemmed organza underskirts seemed to float away from the body as if by magnetic force. It was a sensation. The fashion press, not given to understatement even in 1958, proclaimed, "Yves Saint Laurent has saved France." A new design legend had arrived...
...even if the clothes aren't changing, other elements of the business are. When the International Herald Tribune put the headline "Dior's Aggression Misses the New Romantic Beat" on fashion writer Suzy Menkes' review of the spring-summer Christian Dior collection, she found herself banned from LVMH shows. Executives complained that the remarks made the company look insensitive to the post-Sept. 11 world. Arena Homme Plus had to recall its fall issue - delivered the week of the attacks - which pictured on the cover a bloodied Justin Timberlake wearing Army dog tags...
...parodying the fashion industry, which is harder than it might seem. For films that try - Robert Altman?s Prêt-a-Porter, for example - the problems are twofold. First, fashion is inherently silly - it?s already a parody of itself. How does one top the Christian Dior newspaper collection designer John Galliano said was inspired by the homeless? Second, the world of fashion is a tight clique - it?s hard to get close enough to the key players to make the parody ring true...