Word: dior
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...Slimane's first task was to design his own office and atelier-sleek and modern with hidden tall narrow doorways and wood floors and just down the street from the historical home of Christian Dior and Galliano's team. Next, he produced ads featuring a black-and-white portrait of a young, bare-chested boy shot by Richard Avedon. And by the end of 2001, the first Dior Homme stores will open. Rarely, if ever, will the men's and women's clothes hang side by side. "All they share is a logo and the color gray," Toledano says...
...Galliano's first collection for Dior coincided with the house's 50th anniversary. The 50 dresses he presented were inspired by Christian Dior, and the collection was deemed worthy of the house's reputation. Subsequent efforts-including the denim collection, the homeless collection and the S&M collection-baffled and even insulted many who wondered if there could possibly be a customer for these clothes. Rumors that Arnault would replace Galliano surfaced regularly. But instead, Arnault renewed Galliano's contract in 2000 and increased his responsibilities, granting him creative control over things like advertising and accessories. "The impact of these...
...controversy-first strategy is slowly paying off. Dior lost $1 million in 1998, the result of cutting off a myriad of licenses. But in 1999 it was back in the black, with profits of some $8 million. In 2000, sales increased another 35%-most of which is credited to Galliano's involvement...
...Slimane's collections for Dior, the first of which was seen in January, will likely continue to receive raves from the fashion press. But they're unlikely to shock the media as a whole into paying attention. The controversy created by the presence of Berg* and Saint Laurent was of a sort that is lost on anyone outside fashion's inner circle. Sure, Arnault scored points there, but the larger question remains whether Dior Homme's stark ads, minimal styles and boyish models make sense in the house of Dior that Galliano has been remodeling. Is it logical...
...Galliano laughs when the subject is raised, pointing out that he was the one who recommended Slimane for the post. "I was rooting for him because I want something to wear," he says. And Dior executives argue there's room for a variety of Diors. "We did a study and found Dior can be a brand with several different talents," says Toledano, pointing out that his firm's fine jewelry is designed by Victoire de Castellane and will get a new store on the Place Vend?me this spring. The brand-management theory? Separate but equal...