Word: dior
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...certainly a great moment for Arnault, who also controls Christian Dior. Neither Berg* nor Saint Laurent were at the YSL men's show the day before. (Remember, Arnault's archrival Gucci Group bought YSL for $1 billion late last year.) The debut men's collection by Tom Ford was a homage to Saint Laurent the man-a parade of lookalike models in the designer's signature glasses. That Berg* and Saint Laurent chose to attend the Dior show instead of the one for the brand they created could only be seen as a slap in the face...
...More subtle, but just as interesting, was the appointment of Slimane in the first place. Cerebral and reserved, Slimane couldn't be more dissimilar to Galliano, the buoyant, effusive man who has spent the last four years tearing down the image of Dior and rebuilding to fit a vision uniquely his own. Slimane achieved fame in fashion circles in 1996 with his sleek, sexy designs for the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche men's label. His clothes are unique in men's wear-slim leather coats, narrow suits and sheer shirts-subtle and elegant pieces that focus more...
...after the YSL sale-reportedly from Prada Group to design the women's collection for Jil Sander and from Gucci Group to set up a collection in his own name. Signing Slimane was a major coup for Arnault in the battle between Gucci and LVMH. Slimane said he chose Dior because he wanted his own atelier and was intrigued by the idea of creating a men's collection more or less from scratch. "Men's is a white page here," Slimane said. "There's nearly no presence for the collection in America. The licenses have been...
...While the Dior men's business was sleeping, women's has been rocking and rolling, forcing everyone around it to pay attention. Since 1997, Galliano has been working to create a house of Dior that is racy, loud and, most of all, fun. Where Hedi sees simple shapes, John sees lavish layers. Where Slimane sees minimalism, Galliano sees extravaganza. Galliano, the postmodernist, takes the world and its history as his inspiration-creating collections that revisit the aesthetic of, say, the Amazons or the trailer park, and presents them in a whole new light...
...early collections as a death knell for haute couture. Others saw him as its savior-the man who could bring excitement, and maybe even paying customers, back to the parlors of the couture houses. Excitement? Headlines? Galliano got both in droves. After a year, Arnault promoted him to Dior and moved another British bad-boy, Alexander McQueen, to Givenchy, arguing that good press is paramount and sales secondary...