Word: dior
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Tout le monde was talking about it. Well, tout le fashion monde anyway. Yves Saint Laurent was in the front row of the Christian Dior men's show last month, sandwiched between his business partner Pierre Berg* and LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault. It may not seem like a big deal-Saint Laurent used to be the designer for Christian Dior, and the designer having the show, Hedi Slimane, once worked for the Yves Saint Laurent label. But Saint Laurent never showed up at one of Slimane's shows before. In fact, Saint Laurent has reportedly attended only one other fashion...
...selling should be. Karl Lagerfeld?s collection contained none of the key trends seen on the haute couture runways: no corsets, like at Versace, Gaultier and Christian Dior; no cut-outs, as seen at Gaultier and Versace; no buckles a la Valentino and Versace (shockingly, no reference to bondage at all!); but what was there was stunning. The suit Coco Chanel created so many years ago came out looking entirely new, with jackets tucked into skirts and belts slung low on the waist. Jean-Paul Gaultier also did a spectacular job of redoing what he does best. Tuxedoes, a trench...
...quite-body-covering pearls. Christian Lacroix appeared to take inspiration from the fluttery fashions of ice skaters (lower right), clashing patterns, colors and whatever else he could find. Elle noted Lacroix was "both sublime and ridiculous." Of course he was. Finally, John Galliano's collection (far right) for Christian Dior was inspired by Wonder Woman. Models re-enacted the recent history of female liberation, beginning as Eisenhower-era suburban consumers accessorized with Brillo pads, teacups and plastic babies, and ending as heavy-metal superhero chicks in ripped clothes and boots. Fashion history really is the best history...
Contrary to the old Whodini song, the freaks do not come out at night. They come out during fashion week in Paris. Dior designer JOHN GALLIANO, whose last couture line was inspired by homelessness, this time claimed the correspondence of Sigmund Freud sparked his desire to make clothes that a child might see while looking through the keyhole of his mother's boudoir. (Presumably Mrs. G. was not a T.J. Maxx shopper.) The show was staged as a mock wedding, with cross-bearing mandarins and gorilla women strolling down the runway to a sound track of orgasmic moans...
...runways, though, LVMH behaves like a cost-conscious maker of discount goods. Arnault has reined in expenses and, wherever possible, combined the production of his swank brands to create manufacturing efficiencies. Guerlain and Dior perfumes share plants, for example, as do Loewe and Louis Vuitton leather goods...