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John Galliano, 36, a cheeky Spaniard brought up in London, was the toast of the SoHo fashion scene but unknown on the Avenue Montaigne when he took over Givenchy two years ago. A year later, Arnault moved him to Dior and plucked Alexander McQueen--even cheekier and younger, at 27--to guide the fortunes of Givenchy. At Louis Vuitton, a maker of fancy luggage and handbags that dates to 1854, he has hired an American, the young sportswear designer Marc Jacobs, to create a line of bags and sportswear to take on the chic of Gucci and Prada. Jacobs should...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...Fall ready-to-wear shows in Paris, the most important bazaar on the fashion calendar, were in full crush. At Dior, house of the very hot designer John Galliano, the props indicated that the young maestro had been thinking hard about a dreamland Orient. As the crowds tripped around the delicate bridge to nowhere on their way to find or steal seats, one conservatively dressed businessman waited quietly in the shadows. Galliano may get the attention, but, murmured Bernard Arnault, "I have...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...also has all the power. His control of the French conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton has made him the king of luxury goods. Over the past decade or so, Arnault has put particular energy into high-end fashion, acquiring the houses of Dior, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy and Kenzo. If you've already made your first few billion, it is a dream kingdom. Lately, the irreverent Women's Wear Daily is calling him the Pope of Fashion...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...neither the French business community nor the fashion flock sees this pope as infallible. Arnault's American-style takeover battles have rankled France's conservative business cardinals. And his appointment of Brits to run Dior and Givenchy--not to mention his sacking of the revered Hubert de Givenchy, the man who immortalized Audrey Hepburn--shocked the French, who, with some justification, see their nation's fashion sense as chic in a way that cannot be duplicated by a couple of rostbifs...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

...ferocious" approach in acquiring luxury-goods companies, many of which were family owned, by splitting the opposition--that is, stepping in on the side of one of two disagreeing partners and later eliminating the survivor. He did that in 1985, taking over the bankrupt firm of Boussac, which owned Dior. At the time, he promised to expand Boussac and preserve jobs; instead he shut it down, having extracted the part he wanted...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: FASHION: THE POPE OF FASHION | 4/21/1997 | See Source »

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