Word: dior
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...that unlike couture, the clothes are supposed to be worn by people other than the preternaturally skeletal and rich. This isn't as much fun for the designers. Perhaps that's why in Paris last week, fashion's famous let their wilder ideas go to models' heads. At Christian Dior, Oriental wigs covered up the famous tresses of the likes of CINDY CRAWFORD (far left). Givenchy stylists put others in hedge-like mop tops. Issey Miyake seemed to be aiming for the postmodern haystack, while KATE MOSS'S wedge (second from left) almost distracted from Chanel's most unbusinesslike bikini...
...Lagerfeld, who is German. But the headlines are now being made by two young Englishmen: John Galliano, 36, and Alexander McQueen, just 27. A charming, egregiously talented pixie of a man, Galliano took over the house of Givenchy last year but has already moved on to preside over Christian Dior, considered--along with Chanel--the most important French fashion empire. McQueen, an East Ender previously unknown outside the trendier London precincts, was named to succeed his countryman at Givenchy...
...fashion world went into shock. Why not a top French designer like Jean-Paul Gaultier to assume the Givenchy mantle? Or if it had to be a foreigner, why not Vivienne Westwood, a more experienced Brit, who has shown in Paris for years and even troubled to study Dior's own output in detail? But Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH owns both Dior and Givenchy, is betting his money that the route to a younger market--the new, galvanizing image that has evaded the old couture houses in recent years--lies across the Channel. For if Galliano is famous...
...McQueen sees himself as Givenchy's disciple, Galliano is wrapping himself in the tulle of Dior as "the designer I most respect in the 20th century. My own style is close to M. Dior's because of his romantic and hyperfeminine style." Each man has a point. The fashion industry hopes these newcomers will touch feminine fantasy the way the old masters did. But Galliano and McQueen also carry other legacies: the British spirit and the brash vitality of Central Saint Martins. That may work in their favor...
...dress (cut across the grain of the fabric), which is the design of choice for movie stars--or anyone who wants to flaunt a shapely figure. Galliano was chosen to revitalize Givenchy by Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, which owns not only that house but also Lacroix and Dior. It was time, Arnault had decided, to put Hubert de Givenchy out to pasture. The aristocratic designer ran an admirable house for 43 years, and in dressing Audrey Hepburn he gave the world one of its great fashion icons. But Arnault wanted a radical update. His move was not popular...