Word: dior
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BELLE ÉPOQUE. While most of the designers were evoking images of the celluloid past or far-flung lands, Marc Bohan for the House of Dior chose his motifs from a nearer era-France's Belle Epoque. Inspired by the writings of Colette, his clothes are flirtatious and feminine. Here there are no robes that conceal the figure, no heavy padding-only effervescent clothes that capture the spirit of Gigi, the gay gamine immortalized by Maurice Chevalier's Thank Heaven for Little Girls...
...daytime outfits, including simple black wool suits and Spencer jackets worn with black stockings, narrow neckties and black velvet hair ribbons, drew sustained applause from an audience that included both Madame Claude Pompidou and Bianca Jagger. Said Bergdorf Goodman President Ira Neimark, who plans to buy ten or twelve Dior ensembles for his Paris couture promotion: "Excellent-in the tradition of Dior, but younger...
...reason for the great coming-out party, says Carole Stein, a Manhattan-based Christian Dior executive, is that "women are basically sick and tired of looking like men. Clothes have been so ungodly tailored." According to Designer Caulfield, the new look's popularity has a lot to do with the financial side of women's lib. "A working woman can afford to buy herself a $40 camisole, and she will reward herself with one." The look is also a symbol of today's more open sexuality, Caulfield maintains. "When a young woman gets dressed in the morning...
...sales increased 15% (to $1.4 billion) last year. One reason is that couture, in a Y.S.L. executive's words, is "the locomotive" for a clothing company's lucrative ready-to-wear business. Additionally, the publicity that high fashion generates for Y.S.L.-or Pierre Cardin or Dior-helps boost sales of the entire line of products, from soap to wallpaper, that is marketed under a fashion-house name. As a conglomerateur, with 4,450 employees worldwide, 58 products on the market and annual sales of $200 million, Saint Laurent can afford to subsidize the rich...
Outrageous Designs. Saint Laurent, whose firm invested about $500,000 in last week's show, was optimistic that his collection would catch on. Since the Algerian-born French designer took over the couture house of his mentor Dior in 1957 at the age of 21, he has produced a series of highly successful-and often outrageous-designs, such as the Trapeze (1958) and the hobble skirt (1959). When the couturier opened his own house in 1962, he went on to launch tuxedos for women, hip boots, visor caps and, most recently, last spring's Ballets Russes collection...