Word: dior
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...soft unstructured dresses and tailored pantsuits of the early '70s. The raves and somewhat overblown reporting of the collection by Women's Wear Daily and the New York Times reflected the yearning of the hard-pressed U.S. fashion industry for a replay of the late Christian Dior's New Look, the style that so profitably transfigured women and their wardrobes...
Appealing as they are, ready-made clothes from the U.S. have yet to offer a serious challenge to the great European collections. Marc Bohan, 49, who for 15 years has kept the Paris house of Dior in the forefront of world fashion, has high praise for what he calls the Americans' "relaxed, sportive way of putting clothes together." However, like other Continental designers, he maintains that most innovations still come from Europe. Says he: "American designers work on ideas rather than invent them...
...that's not Madame Butterfly in a fur coat. The fashion plate is Dewi Sukarno, 35, widowed fourth wife of former Indonesian President Sukarno, and she just dropped by Paris' House of Dior to sample a new furry creation. Now a Parisienne, Dewi has been working on a book about the Sukarno regime and its overthrow by the army in 1967. "No social life, no parties for me until the end of the year," claimed Dewi. "I'm just concentrating on the book." Well, during the day perhaps. At night the former first lady is still seen...
...label "the TT-or Tight Torso." Pierre Cardin's bottom-cupping skirts cling as tightly as the skin on a peach. Yves Saint Laurent, couture's most influential designer, has also rediscovered the slim look, with cool, understated dresses and near severe tailored pants and jackets. At Dior, Marc Bohan showed below-the-knee skirts topped by waist-length confections he calls "waiter's jackets" -and most women doubtless will have to wait a long time to afford...
Endangered Species. At Dior and most other houses this year, the fur flew freely. Bohan's coats have collars of red or silver fox; raincoats are lined and hooded in mink and moleskin; his anoraks are lined in seal or fox; sheer jackets are bordered in matching ostrich plumes. But if Bohan's clothes hurt the purse, they should not distress the conscience. Said a program footnote: "Christian Dior Fourrure hereby declares that none of the furs shown in the collection are on the endangered list of the World Wild Life Fund." Indeed, if their prices keep rising...