Word: dior
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Buttonhook, line and slinker, the Nazis bought the argument, let Paris' 60-odd dressmakers carry on business almost as usual. Among them: Lelong proteégeés Balmain and Dior...
...name: side-draped "toga coats" by Jacques Griffe; the slope-shouldered "Sling Drape" by Castillo of Lanvin; the gently indented Egg-Cup Silhouette" by Jacques Heim. Three of the most important "looks" (see cuts) : Pierre Cardin's tapered "Sickle Silhouette," Guy Laroche's bouncy "Flounce Look," Dior Designer Yves Saint-Laurent's loose and swinging "Trapeze Line...
Swarming into Paris last week for the spring collections, fashion writers and buyers had a single sentimental question: How would the house of Dior do without Dior? It hardly seemed possible that shy, spectacled Yves Saint-Laurent, only 21, would have the master's touch. But after weeks of work and a $200,000 outlay, Saint-Laurent was more than ready...
...crystal-chandeliered salon, the press was dead silent as the first model swirled in, wearing a sprig of Dior's favorite flower, lily of the valley, on her suit. But as the third model sashayed out, sudden applause for the new Dior line crashed through the cream-and-gilt rooms. It kept up for two more hours and 175 more models. Cries of "bravo, bravo!" broke out at the finale, a model marching by in a bridal gown. When Saint-Laurent himself appeared, mothered by his two weeping associates, Mme. Raymonde and Mme. Marguerite, the blushing youth was mobbed...
Even the world's sharp-eyed buyers, no wasters of emotion, though they loved Dior, rose as one to give Saint-Laurent a standing ovation. "One of the great Dior collections," exulted Bergdorf Goodman's Andrew Goodman. Said astute Marie-Louise Bousquet, Harper's Bazaar's oldest Paris hand: "If the colossus of Dior had crumbled, it would have shaken French fashion to its foundations...