Word: dish
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...Clint Eastwood, the way to make your day is to sample his hearty apple pie. Eastwood, the actor turned mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea, Calif., fired off the recipe to The Mayors' Cookbook (Acropolis Books; $14.95), a collection of more than 300 city leaders' favorite dishes. The contents are not only eclectic but reflect a politically prudent regional loyalty: Ed Koch of New York City advocates pasta primavera and Kathryn Whitmire of Houston sings the merits of huevos con chorizo (eggs with sausage). But gourmets may balk when it comes to the Lone Star broccoli casserole, the preferred dish...
...Ritz crackers and melted cheese. It should be noted that the Sterns and Fussell give quite different recipes for New Orleans red beans and rice, yet both are credited to Buster Holmes, operator of the famous French Quarter greasy spoon. Quite possibly the old master cook never makes that dish the same way twice, which is why there probably cannot be, as the Sterns suggest, a last word on the subject...
...delicious and reliable. Marcella's Italian Kitchen (Knopf; $22.95) is the third book by the redoubtable Marcella Hazan, a no-nonsense instructor who has conducted classes in New York City, Bologna and now in Venice. As before, she advocates the one right way to do a particular task or dish, usually with her old reliable utensils. "If I had to choose, I would sooner give up my food processor, because what the food mill does, no processor or blender can." But she relents, giving instructions for both hand and machine methods on many tasks...
...author always manages to find delectable Italian dishes and variations that seem new, and she can still entice the most indifferent reader to the kitchen. There, in the tradition of Julia Child and other thoughtful instructors, she will instruct how much of a dish can be made in advance, a great boon to anyone entertaining dinner guests. Among the many excellent recipes, a few that were irresistible in the testing were a risotto with squid, shrimp and clams, and a rosemary-and-sage-scented shoulder of veal, encrusted with bread crumbs and Parmesan after being braised. Pears simmered...
...Margaret Leibenstein's The Edible Mushroom -- A Gourmet Cook's Guide (Fawcett Columbine; $14.95). Merinoff, a journalist and caterer, is obviously beguiled by all things pasta -- Italian, Greek, Hungarian, Israeli, African, Alsatian or Asian. Her work brims with tempting dumplings, noodles in mild and spicy sauces, one-dish soups and stews bolstered with some form of wheat-, bean- or rice-flour noodles. Lore is easygoing, and recipes are explicit...