Word: dishes
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With that, a dish that traces its roots to the prostitutes of Naples (legend says they made the spicy dish for their clients) moves one step closer to the malls of America. Every six months, the restaurant's R&D chefs winnow hundreds of ideas for new menu items--the Cheesecake Factory's version of American Idol--and Matz's puttanesca has reached the finals. After a few years of rounds that added Asian, Caribbean and Latin American flavors to the menu, this round of revisions will reimagine familiar classics like spinach salad, corned-beef hash and spaghetti with...
...rolls appear alongside buffalo wings, "it shows the customers that those items are mainstream," says Karen Cathey, incoming chair of the American Institute of Wine and Food. "They've modernized American food," says Clark Wolf, a food and restaurant consultant, and the chain's national reach gives every new dish leverage over millions of American taste buds. With its kitchen-sink menu and gargantuan portions, the Cheesecake Factory is big-tent cuisine at its most expansive. It is a restaurant where everything is included but nothing is authentic, and it is changing the way we think about American food...
...ever make it to a restaurant unless it gets through Joaquin Marchan, a star Cheesecake Factory line cook who now puts new recipes through their road tests. It's here that the free-form lasagna started to fall apart. Okura and his chefs had perfected two versions of the dish, layers of pasta, cheese and sauce: one with roasted tomato sauce adorned with basil oil, the other an all-beef Bolognese with truffle...
...Laurentiis and Goin cook for different audiences, but both use butter, oil, cheese and chocolate with profligacy. A signature De Laurentiis dish is a homey chicken Tetrazzini made with heavy cream and whole milk; Goin's book offers a tarte au fromage that contains a pound of ricotta inside an all-butter puff pastry, topped with not only lemon cream but also blueberry compote. There's something nearly carnal about all this full-fat food issuing from the kitchens of these gorgeous, tiny women. On a 2004 episode of Everyday Italian, De Laurentiis made two rich stuffed pastas as well...
...dinnertime at a candlelit Mediterranean eatery, and Gregg Rapp is busily devouring ... the menu. He nibbles first at the design, evaluating its overall clarity. He then savors the food descriptions--ravioli with shaved truffles, breaded tenderloin piccata--locating words that give a sense of a dish's flavors and textures. Next he looks to see whether prices are integrated into the text or standing alone by the right-hand margin. Rapp gives our menu a passing grade: the descriptions are laden with helpful adjectives, and the prices are unobtrusive. But a pattern on the paper makes a couple...