Word: dogfish
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Fishiest Trend. Egged on by a growing interest in low-calorie, low-fat eating, fish fanciers widened their horizons in the '80s, moving beyond such familiars as salmon, bass and sole to nibble on once scorned ocean trash -- dogfish, skate and the impossibly ugly monkfish (often marketed under its seductive French monicker, lotte). New Zealand's orange roughy, among other imported novelties, made its appearance at supermarkets and dinner tables. Most fashionable of all: fresh tuna, usually served rare, and Hawaii's mahimahi...
...Dogfish. Monkfish. Stingray. Weakfish. Mahi Mahi. Orange roughy. Opakapaka. Five years ago, few of those salt water creatures would have been likely candidates for the dinner table, either at home or in restaurants. Now Americans are hooked on fish. They are ordering not only such old standards as sole, salmon, striped bass and swordfish but the more exotic species as well. Restaurants and markets across the country tally big increases in sales of shellfish and finfish. The experience of Inland Seafood Corp., a wholesale distributor of fresh and high-quality frozen fish in Atlanta, is typical. "Our sales have increased...
Then too there is a question of aesthetics: the American taste may be broadening, but many people still recoil from an unattractive name. So a vocabulary of euphemisms for Cinderella trash fish surfaces. Dogfish becomes grayfish or salmon shark. For opakapaka, try Hawaiian pink snapper. Blowfish are sold as sea robin or sea squab. The huge, shapeless monkfish fetches a , higher price under its French name, lotte...
...esteemed food in the Mediterranean, the West Indies, the Orient (indeed, delicately flavored shark's fin soup is a standard dish in U.S. Chinese restaurants) and Latin America, where savory dried and smoked shark meat is known as bacalao de tiburón. In England, vast quantities of dogfish, a small shark, are sold in fish-and-chips shops...
...groups a few yards offshore, bathers stunned with sun hover nervously at water's edge and at the hint of a dorsal fin retreat to the beach. "D'ya want to get jawed?" shouted one kid to another in the Santa Monica, Calif., surf. Even the lowly dogfish, the spaniel of the seas but a shark just the same, is suspected of homicidal intentions. "Kill it, kill it," urged a Long Island angler to his companion dangling a 2-ft.-long, almost toothless fish from his rod, "before it grows up to kill...