Word: dolman
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WRITER: BOB DOLMAN...
...clothes are theatrical, even storybook: elaborate ruffles and sashes, billowing long skirts and dramatic dolman sleeves. For fabrics, Capraro favors see-through eyelets, misty flowered voiles, and chiffons. "Clothes," he says, "should be mysterious, sexy and feminine." He claims to be an "incurable romantic" and recalls that he has sat through Gone With the Wind 35 times (which hardly qualifies him as a romantic). He gets fashion inspirations from Impressionist art and some of his dresses could be (more or less) out of a Renoir painting...
Other New York designers have gone Chinese as well, although most of the designer-created lines will not hit the national market until next year. At Bonwit Teller, however, the flashy, far-out ideas of Giorgio di Sant'Angelo are on display now. His basic looks include a dolman-sleeved, high-waisted body suit, with a loose, short-sleeved long robe that goes over it. "I think this will replace the poncho," he says. "In winter, the Chinese sometimes wear six of these robes-the layered look is really very Chinese...
...Deceivers. There are many reasons for the new sweater enthusiasm. Selections in both color and style are wider than ever. In both London and New York, a big seller is the dolman (or batwing) version, which has long, wide sleeves growing out of its wide waistband. There are snug, armless sweater tubes and long sweater dresses. Many sweaters now sport knitted-in portraits of people or animals. Betsey Johnson's "ecology" line features trees and fish; Giorgio di Sant'Angelo portrays a plane taking off. Stan Herman's trompe 1'oeil sweater dresses have fake belts...
...patrons he had inserted a card bearing his wartime views: "We feel privileged at this vital time in our world's history to present a collection of clothes carefully attuned to Government Order L-85. Here, briefly, are the highlights of this Government ruling: No bias or dolman sleeves. No woolen evening wraps. No woolen evening dresses. A maximum of 144-inch sweep for evening dresses. No suit jacket over 25 inches long. No cuffs on suits. No patch pockets. No belt over two inches wide. No overskirts...