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DOUBLETALK by Gerard Smith Doubleday; 556 pages...
...across the printed page. Louisette Bertholle provides a salivating exception. A collaborator with Julia Child and Simone Beck in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Bertholle has written a comprehensive, down-to-earth guide to French family cooking that is both witty and percipient. Her French Cuisine for All (Doubleday; $19.95), meticulously edited for the American cook, covers the Gallic spectrum from country soups and dandelion salad to such exotica as iced caviar-flavored consommé and roast loin of young wild boar (frozen joints of European boar are available at specialty stores in some U.S. cities). Bertholle...
...different kettle of poissons, drawn from dozens of national cuisines, is Ruth A. Spear's Cooking Fish and Shellfish (Doubleday; $16.95). The theme of her book is "taking fish seriously," which steak-and-tater Yankees seldom do, even on the seacoasts. Americans are blessed with a biblical abundance of seafood; some 200 varieties pass through Manhattan's Fulton Fish Market. They range from the eel (Anguilla rostrata), much prized by Mediterranean diners, to squid, abalone, Boston scrod, the sadly underrated pike and San Francisco Dungeness crab. American oysters-notably Lynnhavens, Bluepoints, Chincoteagues and the Pacific Olympias...
...protest the gratuitous poke at Betty Prashker of Doubleday, an editor of taste, skill and compassion. Editors, the best editors, do more than undangle participles and unsplit infinitives...
...Doubleday; 651 pages...