Word: drappier
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Even in conservative Champagne, growers like Michel Drappier and brothers Pierre and Philippe Aubry have enlivened the conventional blends of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, which make up more than 99% of Champagne's vines, by hunting down the last plots of the noble varietals of two centuries ago. Philippe Aubry's Blanc des Blancs, incorporating Chardonnay, Arbanne and Petit Meslier, yields startling notes of ginger, lime and bergamot, a profile "completely unknown today in the Champagne world," he says. "It's the taste of another time...
...producers like Michel Drappier, the man behind Champagne Drappier, the Maestro seems sensible enough, but he remains attached to the "weight of history and image" behind the traditional Champagne cork. "I'll admit I find this system rather seductive. I have no qualitative arguments against it," he says. "But I have one big reserve - I feel the romantic side of Champagne is badly bruised...
...Champagne-producing majority, though, a wait-and-see attitude seems de rigueur. "Even if I'm very convinced, we're going to need some time before we adopt these systems wholesale," says producer Drappier, who has tested both the Mytik Diamant and the Maestro. After all, he asks, what would Champagne Drappier's most famous client have thought? "Charles de Gaulle liked his Champagne bottles as simple as a jar of Mom's homemade jam, so I think he'd have been slow to warm to anything too gadgety." If success for Champagne's cork innovators depends on pleasing public...
...PERRIN DRAPPIER, beadle of Domremy: "Joan the Maid was a good girl, chaste, simple, and modest, all the years of her youth . . . When I did not ring for complin, Joan used to ask me why and scold me . . . She even promised me a present of wool if I would be regular in ringing...
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