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...already belonged to one of the most exclusive clubs on earth. And last week Norman Dyhrenfurth, 44, leader of last May's U.S. assault on Mount Everest, joined another rarefied company. At White House ceremonies, President Kennedy handed him the National Geographic Society's seldom awarded (only 21 times in 57 years) Hubbard Medal, which put him among such trail blazers as Admiral Richard E. Byrd, Colonel Charles Lindbergh and-fittingly-Sir Edmund Hillary. The president also passed out replicas of the gold medal to the rest of Dyhrenfurth's 20-man American team, and to Nawang...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: People: Jul. 19, 1963 | 7/19/1963 | See Source »

...base camp. Expedition Leader Norman Dyhrenfurth waited for a walkie-talkie message from the climbers. Just below 28,000 ft., the West Ridge team faced its toughest obstacle: the "Yellow Band"-a 100-ft.-high cliff that resembles a shingled roof. Only pitons and rappel ropes kept Hornbein and Unsoeld inching upward. At last they radioed back that they had crossed the Yellow Band safely. But now they were past the "point of no return." Their supply of pitons was gone. They had to reach the summit and head down the easier South...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

Then down they came, frostbitten from their night in the open, but under their own power, and with an unprecedented record of mountaineering firsts. Dyhrenfurth & Co. had achieved every goal. All told, five Americans had reached Mount Everest's lofty summit. For the first time, Everest's "impassable" West Ridge had been conquered. When Hornbein and Unsoeld finished their return trip down the South Col, they completed the first transverse crossing in the history of Himalayan climbing. Only Sally Dyhrenfurth took it all calmly. "What," she asked her husband, "are you going to do for an encore...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

...Said Jim Whittaker: "Yes, I will." He did-but he lost 30 Ibs. during the six-week-long climb. On the final day, the temperature was a numbing -30°F. Gale-force winds lashed Everest's face as Whittaker and Gombu said goodbye to Expedition Leader Norman Dyhrenfurth at 28,100 ft. and began to work their way to the summit, 928 ft. above. It was, said Dyhrenfurth, "a miracle" that the two men made it. Whittaker and Gombu stayed at the summit 30 minutes, enjoying the view (they could pick out Rongbuk Monastery, 11,000 ft. below...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Yes, I Will | 5/17/1963 | See Source »

...Greenwich Time) on May 1, two men-an American and his Sherpa guide-had stumbled out of the mist onto the top of Mount Everest. A second assault team was waiting to start on its way. Then the radio went silent. Until both teams returned, Expedition Leader Dyhrenfurth refused to identify the men who had planted the Stars and Stripes at the summit of the world...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Up to the Gods | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

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