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...excess: Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler were focused on enhancing shoulders with exaggerated padding; Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent were creating rococo fantasies of beading, silk and ruffles. Amid the froufrous and frills, Kawakubo and Yamamoto rolled out their collections and set Paris on its ear. The clothes were revolutionary, shocking - stark, unstructured and overwhelmingly black. Bewildered critics dubbed Kawakubo's first Paris collection in 1981 - with its frayed seams and misplaced armholes - "Hiroshima chic." This was a moon shot away from the padded-shoulder and pastel look paraded on Dallas. In 1985, Bernadine Morris, then a fashion critic...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: High Concept, High Stakes | 4/30/2001 | See Source »

...predicament aptly illustrates Asia's mixed feelings toward Japan. To the gray-haired generation, memories of military invasions are still vivid. "It's really sad," laments Park Sung Pyo, a 63-year-old retired Seoul businessman. "I try to tell my children about the atrocities. They listen with one ear and it goes out the other ear, and then they buy my grandchildren things from Japan. They didn't live through the colonial experience, so it doesn't seem real to them...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Look Back In Anger | 4/30/2001 | See Source »

...tough Jesuit high school I attended, a prefect of discipline, Father Donahue, confronted a Polish kid who, for three days running, refused the prefect's order to shave the dirty shadow of down from his cheeks. Finally, Father Donahue led the kid into his office by the ear and dry-shaved him himself with a "safety razor. " Maybe Father Donahue learned about the operation from reading about the Mohawks and Iroquois, who sent Jesuit martyrs to heaven centuries...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Through the Looking-Glass With a Safety Razor | 4/26/2001 | See Source »

...Once the generals had Jiang's ear, though, they bent it hard. It's significant that after keeping mum for two days, Jiang opened with a demand to end surveillance flights; only a day later did he call for an apology. "Ending spy flights is what the military wants, so Jiang demanded it first," explains a former editor for the Communist Party's mouthpiece, the People's Daily...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Four Key Lessons | 4/23/2001 | See Source »

Once the generals had Jiang's ear, though, they bent it hard. It's significant that after keeping mum for two days, Jiang opened with a demand to end surveillance flights; only a day later did he call for an apology. "Ending spy flights is what the military wants, so Jiang demanded it first," explains a former editor for the Communist Party's mouthpiece, the People's Daily...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Spy Plane Finale: Four Key Lessons | 4/23/2001 | See Source »

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