Word: echezeaux
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...Simon & Schuster; $39.95). A magisterial but awkwardly organized tasting guide to recent vintages from this French province by America's leading wine critic. Parker, as always, is pungently direct in designating picks and pans: a 1985 Romanee-Conti, scored a perfect 100, is "utterly mind-blowing," while a 1987 Echezeaux, rated 69, is "woody, stemmy, green and thin...
...European custom that is taking hold in the U.S. Since 1955, consumption of table wines has nearly doubled, to 78.6 million gallons a year. Five years ago, restaurant customers in Chicago seldom bought wine. Now it is common, and they are specifying color, brand, region, year-even ordering Grands Echezeaux and pronouncing it right...
...sketches to illustrate future chapters. "The thing about food," says Julia, "is you're a much happier person if you eat well and treasure your meals." No purist, she thinks nothing of belting down a couple of stiff bourbons at home just before Paul serves a superb Grands Echezeaux from his 350-bottle wine cellar. She keeps tubs of Marlboros on the kitchen table, gaily dips into them for a smoke between courses. "I hate people who put on the dog, don't you?" she smiles guilelessly...
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