Word: egg
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...faith. "Everyone who watches is mourning for Hussein as well," says Ali Hosseini, an 18-year-old who has just pulled a black T-shirt over his lacerated back. Slowly the faded cotton darkens with blood. "Their presence gives us power." Indeed, the presence of an audience appears to egg on the penitents. The strikes are harder in the presence of video cameras and camera phones. Still, he says that he feels no pain. "Our imam was killed, his blood was shed for Islam, so we shed our blood for Islam. The pride eclipses the pain...
...been pretty happy to discover, on at least half the dinner menus I've scanned in the past year, entrées topped with a poached egg: halibut, salmon, pasta, chorizo, ratatouille, tuna tartare, mushrooms, chicken, crab cakes, asparagus, salad. And it always works, adding a richness and silkiness to everything, a protein-on-protein, Atkins-era overindulgence that makes me psyched to be an American. "Hey, this is delicious, but wouldn't it be better if we plopped some bird ovum...
...Europe and Asia they have always sneaked an egg onto dinner stuff--a frisée salad with lardon, spaghetti carbonara, ramen, pizza, bibimbap. Because Spain is having a huge impact on American chefs, eggs are now appearing outside of breakfast menus. "In Spain, if you have eggs with coffee, they'll look at you like you're crazy," says Seamus Mullen, who poaches eggs from his parents' Vermont farm at New York City's Boqueria restaurant. But in Frank Perdue's America, it's only recently that there have been eggs good enough (local, organic, free-range) to add real...
...current ubiquity of the runny egg, however, isn't just due to Spanish influences and the greenmarket movement, which fetishizes purity and simplicity. It benefited from the other major 21st century food trend: high-tech cooking equipment. There is a quiet tug-of-war going on in restaurant kitchens between Luddites and chemists, with chefs pretending to be both--pumping locally grown organic raspberries into foam with a canister of nitrous oxide. But I think you need to pick sides. Either you want to mess with stuff, or you don't. And the egg--in its wimpy little shell...
When chefs started hauling lab equipment into their kitchens, one item they found they couldn't live without was a $1,300 immersion circulator, which allowed them to find and maintain the exact temperature at which egg whites and yolks begin to set. A slow-poached egg-- say, at 143°F for 90 minutes-- is that rare, perfect synthesis of greenmarket and high tech. When cracked open, the thing spills out ludicrously egg-shaped and ridiculously soft, the yolk suspended between raw and cooked, the cloudy white freed from that slight rubberiness I never knew bothered me until...