Word: eggplanted
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...attends your garage sale, you must eat her eggplant. From Boccacio to Baio, all the most essential player-qua-pimps know this...
...smooth Egyptian cabernet. The hummus and babaganough were well-executed old favorites, but it was the zingy zabadi, a creamy yogurt mixed with mint and cucumber, that had me digging in with a spoon. He then convinced me to try the emam biyaldi, a strange-sounding dish of baked eggplant with raisins, ground beef, pine nuts and a hint of coconut, which turned out to be a sensational blend of flavor and texture. The panfried halloumi, a mozzarella-like goat cheese served on a salad dressed with lemon and olive oil was deliciously simple?and simplicity...
...meze are excellent. Crunchy house crackers, dusted with spices, are the perfect foil for the various dips and spreads. If you’re lucky, soft pita-like bread, fresh from the oven and dusted with caraway seeds, will also be handed over. Bedenjal Mechoui ($3.95), an eggplant spread with roasted peppers, garlic, parsley, vinegar and lots of olive oil is always perfect, the smokiness of the eggplant mingling with the fruity oil. Olives are a staple of the region, and here they’re served both in a diced salad with herbs (Teklia, $3.50) and whole, marinated...
...savvy diner would stop there, and proceed directly to dessert. After the meze, the entrees seem oversized and repetitive. The Melkha ($12.95), an eggplant stuffed with olives, spinach, and feta cheese, is aggressively salty. No one at our table would take more than a bite. Grilled meat is just that—grilled, plain, boring. The couscous ($8.95) is just acceptable, surprising since this is the staple of the Maghreb. Ideally, each grain of couscous should be distinct and fluffy, having been steamed and re-steamed over water (but never submerged) in a couscousière, a special implement designed...
Georgian restaurants abound. Try Tiflis, just off Ostozhenka Street. Hors d'oeuvres, including eggplant stuffed with walnut, are excellent, though the main courses are variable (try the chicken Tabaka). Very good wine from the owner's vineyard costs just a little more than tea at Uley...