Word: ellman
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...Ingmar Bergman's latest, is a howl of desperation, at times unberably intense, each brutal. Although the dramatic, tension are unremittingly psychological, the film is also in effect a stab at the heart of bourgeons society through dissection of its women. The entire Bergman crew is in fine form Ellman, Thulin, photographer Sven Nykvist, most of all Harriett Anderson as the dying sister at the center of the film's family...
Still, the all-you-can-eat theme keeps spreading, and profits keep rolling in. Explains Larry Ellman, whose 37-unit Steak and Brew chain offers unlimited amounts of salad, drinks and bread with a modestly priced entree: "The person who eats too much is a fantastic advertisement for us, because he'll tell other people about his great buy." Fifteen Steak and Brew establishments are on the drawing boards, and further expansion seems to be limited only by the output of world agriculture. "We've never run out of food," boasts Robert Gladstone, manager...
...Ellman frankly concedes that his restaurants are not for gourmets-"We appeal to graduates of Howard Johnson's," he says-and that the appeal is frankly directed at the customers' venality. At Charles, there is free champagne; at the Steer Palace, a weekend "family plan" luncheon at which parents with children get the first child's meal free (even if it is a $6 sirloin steak), the second's for $1 and all others' for half price. Dinner, dancing and "all the drinks you can drink" for $9.95 is the bill of fare...
...done on the honor system; waiters bring full whisky bottles and setups to the tables, and customers are expected to tot up their own bar bills. "If you tell us you only had one double bourbon we'll believe you," reads an ad for Cavanagh's, and Ellman says: "We want the customer to feel that he's putting one over on us, that he's got the edge...
...course, he rarely has. At La Boufferie, for example, the carafe of "Cotes-du-Rhone 1965" advertised on the menu at $1.95 turns out to be cheap Spanish wine. Still, attracted by a $1,000,000-a-year advertising campaign, customers are flocking to Ellman's restaurants in startling numbers. Orangerie serves about 5,200 meals a week, and an offshoot of Ellman's original Cattleman, the Cattleman West, which opened last February, is already serving 1,250 people a day. Those figures are immensely satisfying to Proprietor Ellman, a onetime student of accounting from Brooklyn whose...