Word: epidaurus
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Entering the chief playhouse in this three-theater complex, the not-yet-finished Olivier Theater, is a breath-catching moment. It flares out like a fan, not quite to the width of an amphitheater, but with an uncanny resemblance in miniature to the ancient Greek theater of Epidaurus. It is as if 2,500 years of dramatic history had been telescoped into this immutable wedge of space...
Theatrical companies took one look at that majestic edict and began revamping their repertories. The Epidaurus Festival of Ancient Tragedy discovered that it had no room on the schedule for Euripides' The Suppliants, a story of a free city-state triumphing over tyranny...
...first time, tourists will have an alternative to bumping from site to site by bus. Instead, ruin viewers can sail the wine-dark sea in comfort on a scenic three-day cruise (for from $75 to $160) aboard the Meltemi, which stops at ports near Delphi, Epidaurus and Corinth...
Flags & Electra. Late that afternoon, in the splendid open-air theater of Epidaurus, Jackie sat in rapt attention on a stone bench while actors of the National Theater of Greece performed an emotion-packed scene from Sophocles' Electra. "I don't speak Greek," she said after the performance, "but I know Electra and other Greek tragedies very well from studying them at school." As the North Wind pulled out of Epidaurus harbor and headed for a long weekend among the Aegean isles, Jackie stood in the stern, waving farewell with a tiny blue and white Greek flag...
Apollo & Grope Leaves. After Epidaurus, the North Wind headed for the gemlike isle of Poros and a postcard panorama of lemon trees, whitewashed buildings, and brightly colored caïques in the harbor. The Greek government cut Delos, the island where Apollo was born, off from the outside world for a day, so that Jackie could enjoy its rubbled splendors alone. At Mykonos, an island with a population of 5,000 and 333 churches, every wall in the capital city, and even the cobblestoned streets, had been given a fresh coat of whitewash. In a tavern in Hydra, Jackie enthusiastically...