Word: epistrofi
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...unappealing. But the aroma is alluring, guaranteed to send you straight to the counter for a slice of traditional feta-cheese pie, plus some olive-and-basil bread, plus a taste of those yeastless loaves that nourished the ancient Greeks for eons. Then hit the district's hippest gallery, Epistrofi (meaning "return"), for a view of works by upstart artists, mainly of the Greek diaspora. And wrap it all up with a visit to Dimitris', one of the oldest barbershops in Athens (sorry ladies, this is a treat for men). There, for a meager $7, you can indulge...
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