Word: esterel
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Emanuel Ungaro remembered the mini fondly in a series of short, pleated skirts but covered most with midi-length coats, while Jacques Esterel's "he and she" collection featured tunics all round, ankle length and so narrowly cut as to be equally hobbling for either sex. Courrèges lowered his sights with a floor-length black vinyl apron atop flaming red briefs. (It is not the most practical outfit, but that did not seem to matter when Raquel Welch modeled it.) Mostly, Courrèges fell back on the old jumpsuits, made of vinyl and stickier than ever...
Small Issue. Parents who care to shop around do not have to stop with Cardin. Ted Lapidus' "Mini-Ted" fashions can make almost any boy look soigné, and Carven's "Ma Fille" collection puts mothers and daughters into matching, high-style camaraderie. Jacques Esterel's "négligé snob" would get father and son in the act, too, with everyone wearing identical family jerseys. And then there is Marc Bohan's "Baby Dior" line. It's not every two-year-old who can wear (or whose parents can afford) a white lace dress...
Even before the showings began, Esterel, Feraud, Lapidus and Launay were expelled by the Chambre Syndicale, and Scherrer and Heim suspended -all because they released photos of their models in advance. In the future, more designers are likely to follow suit. Explained Cardin, who has already resigned: "The couturier who has chosen to dress millions of women rather than 5,000 privileged ladies scattered around the world needs to have his collection talked about in order to support his ready-to-wear line...
...showings could be worn by a woman over 35. "All that's missing in these collections is diapers," snapped one conservative couturier. But on the principle that when skirts keep going up, something must come down, designer after designer rediscovered shorts, called forthrightly "les Bermudas." For daytime, Esterel showed shorts worn with knee socks; for evening, Madame Grès let them peek through a floor-length skirt slit to the hip like a half-peeled banana. Crahay at Lanvin blossomed forth with frilly organdy bloomers under flaring, tentlike little-girl dresses, and Castillo even tried an evening tunic...
...emphasize the sexy look, Jacques Esterel showed-for low-slung pants-a tasseled gold button that glints, eyelike, in the navel. Madame Grès won top engineering honors for a bareback bikini that anybody can make at home with three or four pot holders and a long, thin necktie. For evening wear, Grès grew more conservative: one closely draped jersey dress covered the midriff completely, except for two good-sized diamond-shaped picture windows just south of the rib cage. Jules Crahay of Nina Ricci finally closed the neckline of one dress at the navel. Michel Goma...
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