Word: ethnicize
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...cookies. Notes Green: "To be really authentic we even have Marshmallow Fluff for those who want it." Similarly, there is a Southwest-Mexican down-home culinary representation at the slick, glittering Fog City Diner in San Francisco. At America, the 200 choices on the menu represent just about every ethnic and regional style that is currently fashionable. In truth, most dishes at the theatrical America can best be regarded as stage props...
Alice Waters, 41, is usually credited with popularizing new American cooking with the innovative cuisine she served at Chez Panisse, opened in 1971. But two years earlier, in High Falls, N.Y., John Novi, 43, began free-associating ethnic influences for dishes at his DePuy Canal House, a restored wood-and-stone tavern dating from 1797. Now Novi, just back from an eating tour of Italy, plans to add new creations to his old favorites, such as a soup of kale, brisket and hominy, and fried troutlings with a sweet pepper and horseradish dip. Len Allison and Karen Hubert...
There are specific reasons why California has come to be identified with the trend. Notes Weimer: "In terms of the food world, California has a rich history of ethnic immigration. Another reason is equally compelling. It's the incredible climate, which enables anything to flourish here...
...even in the yuppie culture, the power of nostalgia is not to be denied. In contrast to the subtle refinements of new American cooking is the current fad for hefty, rough-around-the-edges, down-home or "Momma" cooking, encompassing a variety of regional and ethnic styles. What is regarded as Momma cooking in one part of the country is a bold new taste sensation a few hundred miles away...
Maybe so, but this rediscovery is a consequence of having such tangled roots and of confronting the new ethnic and regional combinations that emerge with each generation. Waters regrets the use of the word cuisine because she feels it indicates that we think our cooking has arrived. She thinks the country is not ready for that term. Others long for a codification or standardization of our dishes so that gumbo in California will mean exactly the same thing as it does in Boston. But Evan Jones, author of American Food: The Gastronomic Story (E.P. Dutton), hopes that will never happen...