Word: etxebarri
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...even took my husband to a strip club after I was tipped off that the best meat in Manhattan was to be had at Robert's Steakhouse in the Penthouse Gentlemen's Club. But after several samples of charcoal-grilled chuletón or prime rib at restaurants like Etxebarri in Axpe and Casa Nicolas in Tolosa, my radar homed in on northern Spain...
...hung to lose excess water, develop complex flavor, and break down tough fibers, but for how long? Experts disagree, sometimes violently. With all due respect to Zaldúa, two weeks is not enough for full-on flavor. Nor does youth yield tenderness. After encountering a steak at Etxebarri in Axpe from an old retired dairy cow as tender as a veal calf and infinitely more flavorful, I was also ready to challenge the received wisdom that animals older than 30 months are too tough to eat. In fact, age in both respects may be the secret...
Victor Arguinzoniz is the best grill man ever. His restaurant, Etxebarri, is in a Basque farmhouse about 40 minutes and a world away from Bilbao, in Axpe, a postcard village set among skyscraping peaks, and impossible to find on a map. Trust me, it's worth the trouble. Arguinzoniz makes his own charcoal from local hardwoods. He has also invented a custom grill with a pulley system that allows precise control of oxygen intake, levered grill surfaces that can be kept meticulously clean for a light smoke, and a mesh-bottomed pan that grills such refined foods as caviar...
...foodie mecca, Spain draws culinary pilgrims the way France did a generation ago. Hit the Basque town of San Sebastián, and you'll be surrounded by restaurants serving inventive, often experimental cuisine: places like Arzak, a three-star Michelin legend, and in the countryside, Etxebarri, where chef Victor Arguinzoniz takes such pride in his grilled meats and fishes that he bakes his own charcoal out of different tree branches every morning in an oxygen-controlled oven. At the Guggenheim in Bilbao, a prodigy named Josean Martínez Alija, 27, is winning accolades for dishes like roasted tomatoes stuffed with...
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