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...more big expeditions in mind, says William Unsoeld, 36, a Peace Corps official and one of the five U.S. climbers who scaled Mount Everest last month. Unsoeld and National Geo graphic Photographer Barry Bishop, 30, had to be carried pickaback from a base camp to Namche Bazar, where a helicopter hustled them to the United Mission Hospital at Katmandu. Now recovered from respiratory infections, both men are still under treatment for severe cases of frostbite-with doctors hoping that only the tips of their toes may have to be amputated. And was their victory Pyrrhic? "An experience like Everest," says...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: People: Jun. 14, 1963 | 6/14/1963 | See Source »

...matter where they travel, American tourists usually take a bit of the old country with them. One day last week, they took a traffic jam to the top of Mount Everest...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

...brilliant sunshine, strapped on their oxygen tanks, and began the slow trek toward the windswept, 29,028-ft. summit. Working up the relatively friendly South Col route were Barry Bishop, 30, a National Geographic photographer, and Luther Jerstad, 26, a University of Oregon speech instructor, retracing the path of Everest's earlier conquerors, among them Teammate James Whittaker, 34, who planted the Stars and Stripes on the peak this month (TIME...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

Into Tibet. Days before, a sudden gust of gale-force wind at the 25,000-ft. level had blown away their tents and spare oxygen bottles, knocked two members of their support party 100 ft. down Everest's flank. Hornbein and Unsoeld were dangerously low on supplies. The climbers had to pick their way around huge outcroppings of rock. Now and then, searching for a foothold, they disregarded passport restrictions and stepped across the Nepalese border into Communist Tibet. No one expected them to go all the way-just to climb as far as they could...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

Then down they came, frostbitten from their night in the open, but under their own power, and with an unprecedented record of mountaineering firsts. Dyhrenfurth & Co. had achieved every goal. All told, five Americans had reached Mount Everest's lofty summit. For the first time, Everest's "impassable" West Ridge had been conquered. When Hornbein and Unsoeld finished their return trip down the South Col, they completed the first transverse crossing in the history of Himalayan climbing. Only Sally Dyhrenfurth took it all calmly. "What," she asked her husband, "are you going to do for an encore...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Point of No Return | 5/31/1963 | See Source »

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