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...Mount Everest's horrors have a powerful fascination for a peculiar species of human: the mountaineer. Since 1920, when Tibet first agreed to let foolhardy foreigners gamble their lives against an instant of immortality at the rooftop of the world, 15 expeditions have started for the summit. Two, perhaps three, made it: New Zealand's Sir Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide, Tenzing, first conquered Everest in 1953; a Swiss party followed in 1956; and Soviet-Chinese climbers say they planted a statue of Mao Tse-tung at the top in 1960-a claim that most experts...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Up to the Gods | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

Electric Clouds. This charade has been convulsing London audiences for three months. Its co-authors are Actor-Writers John Antrobus and Terence A.P.S. ("Spike") Milligan. Spike climbed Mount Everest from the inside on BBC radio's Goon Show. He also appeared in The Running, Jumping, and Standing Still Film, the craziest movie short ever made...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Theater Abroad: Real Gone | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

Compared to Mount Everest, the Sahara is a sultan's garden and the Amazon jungle is a farmer's meadow. At its summit, the highest point on earth, 29,028 ft. above sea level, spores have trouble surviving. The hardiest of mountain creatures-the snow leopard, the lammergeier vulture-stay clear of its bitter cold (down to -50°F.) and raging gales (up to 150 m.p.h.), and even the Abominable Snowman-whatever he is-confines his ambulations to the Tibetan plateau, 12,000 ft. below. Transported suddenly to its upper ridges, without an oxygen mask, a healthy...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Up to the Gods | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

Specialists All. On that expedition was Norman Dyhrenfurth, a movie cameraman. In 1960, by then an American citizen and a producer of documentary films in Hollywood, Dyhrenfurth decided to have another go at Everest. He planned his assault with the precision of a man-in-space shot. First, he raised $326,000 (including $100,000 from the National Geographic Society), wheedled U.S. firms into supplying equipment at cut-rate prices: lightweight oxygen tanks, walkie-talkies, 13 tons of freeze-dried food, vitamins, Metrecal wafers. Then Dyhrenfurth picked his team: 20 men, each an experienced part-time mountain climber, each...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Up to the Gods | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

...Nepalese porters and 32 Sherpa tribesmen (for high-altitude work), the climbers set out on an 180-mile northward trek. Along the way, team doctors took time out to battle a Nepalese smallpox epidemic, flying in vaccine and administering it themselves. At last the climbers neared the looming Everest itself. They set up their base camp at 17,000 ft., cautiously began to feel their way through the treacherous Khumbu icefall...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Mountain Climbing: Up to the Gods | 5/10/1963 | See Source »

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