Word: fabric
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...fabric is 90% of the mental work in design," says Miuccia Prada, who most recently made a bold statement on the runway with duchess satin, a fabric most commonly used today in bridal dresses. "It's where I spend most of my time because the quality of the fabric is fundamental. When I get the fabric done, the show is done. I am at ease...
...long ago, the spectacle of fashion was in the fabric, not the celebrity-filled front row. The material mattered more than the scene?more than the next It handbag. I remember visiting Yves Saint Laurent's studio for an haute couture preview when the designer himself was still working, fitting dresses on models. Saint Laurent and his aide-de-camp Loulou de La Falaise were yanking huge bolts of color-saturated Abraham silk down from the shelves and spinning out a fantasy scene of a hot summer day in New Orleans circa 1860, complete with big taffeta skirts and wide...
...making beautiful clothes?used to list the textile mills where these raw materials of fashion dreams were woven. A journalist on deadline who now might be more familiar with the spelling of Lindsay Lohan's name once had to know how to spell the names of the famous fabric houses: Ratti, Bucol, Gandini, Clerici, Guigou, Mantero and, of course, Abraham, the Swiss fabric house owned by Gustav Zumsteg, the late, great textile designer who invented the stiffly finished silk gazar that gave shape to Balenciaga's gowns and who also collaborated with Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel and Hubert de Givenchy...
...sure, fabric can't talk or cause a scandal or convulse the blogosphere. And maybe there is something fusty and old hat in caring too much about the provenance of a silk shantung or getting all weak-kneed about a suit made of cellophane-backed wool. But the art of couture glamour is ultimately about the connoisseurship of material, and there have always been designers who knew this and obsessively attended to the fabric of fashion...
...this special supplement to TIME magazine, we look at what's next in fashion, fabric, architecture, even precious stones and cars. Consider it a sneak peek into some of the most creative minds in these businesses?from Miuccia Prada exploring new fabrics to Jan Kaplicky of Future Systems explaining architecture's next wave. As for cutting-edge consumers, they're talking about a new austerity?not just an aesthetic but also an attitude. It's all about paring down and being more mindful. That too will change, of course...