Word: fabricate
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...every five women passing the entrance of Henri Bendel's in Manhattan would be dressed in trousers. The fact that women's pants are a fact of life (45 million pairs will be sold in the U.S. this year) is a source of solid comfort to fabric manufacturers. But it is also a source of problems for the women who wear them. As any man knows, pants get caught in bicycle chains. They bag at the knees, wrinkle in the rain and flap in the wind. Their cuffs collect water, dirt and lint. Their zippers fail. Pants also...
...virtues that we find in Homer. The problem with the Homeric hero is, ultimately, that he takes individualism to an extreme. In Homer, you could never see a domesticated hero. It's a contradiction of terms. With Vergil, we're seeing the heroic within the social fabric...
This may seem like heavy freight for mere fashion to bear, but Japanese designers do not usually make the fussy Western distinction between craft and art. Issey Miyake talks about the "energy" of fabric and works with a bolt of cloth like a sculptor with clay, not molding it into a presketched design but draping the whole length over a body, drawing the shape of the final garment from the fabric itself as it works in easy collaboration with the body. Rei Kawakubo, the most austere and cerebral of these new designers, speaks intensely about "getting down to the essence...
Yohji Yamamoto, whose wondrously simple cascades of fabric combine Kawakubo's seriousness and Miyake's ebullience, may say that "fashion is fashion. In the end I think that fashion should not be an art." But he also expects his clothes to have the social impact of some major masterwork. "If you want to wear these," he says, "then you must change your situation...
Johnny Appleseed a dirt farmer. Miyake not only led the way but showed the direction as well. Today his direction remains bold and his technique consistent. "It is important for me not to take out the best part of the fabric by cutting a piece out of the middle, as a European would do." Instead of using old fabric, he has, for some time now, been making his own. Currently, he is working with a heavily textured stretch knit that looks like a lava flow, and is trying to decide what to do with an exotic combination of linen backed...