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...weapon he is using to enforce his decree is Women's Wear Daily, and it is a weapon of extraordinary strength. Once a strictly trade journal unknown outside the industry, it has been converted under Fairchild's guidance into a lively, gossipy and bitchy newspaper of manners, trends and scandal. Though its circulation of 85,000 is far below that of Vogue (450,000) and Harper's Bazaar (440,000), it is clearly the most powerful and influential fashion journal in the U.S. It has become must reading for anyone connected with the fashion business, for journalists in search...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Press: Out on a Limb with the Midi | 9/14/1970 | See Source »

...comes in, you can bet that the longer look will be universal." Bill Fine of Bonwit's takes a boudoir view of the midi: "My feeling is that it's like seduction. It's not whether a woman will go for it, but how far she'll go." John Fairchild's wife Jill admits that she did not like the long skirt for the longest time. "But Johnny kept bringing me things," she says, "indoctrinating and brainwashing, and now I think it looks pretty and the short skirt just a little cheap and vulgar...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Press: Out on a Limb with the Midi | 9/14/1970 | See Source »

...next few weeks, however, as the weather grows brisker, the midi's real test of popularity will come. When it does, the midi will have to score a clean, single-season breakthrough if Fairchild is to preserve his image as the No. 1 influence in fashion. A partial victory might convince the casual onlooker of his continued primacy, but it would not fool manufacturers and retailers with storerooms full of dresses they cannot sell. Because he has gambled so heavily and because the industry stands to lose so much, Fairchild could not emerge from a defeat of the midi without...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Press: Out on a Limb with the Midi | 9/14/1970 | See Source »

This growing power has made Fairchild the most feared and disliked man in the fashion-publishing field. Despite his wide blue eyes and guileless countenance, he and his No. 1 hatchet man, WWD Publisher James Brady, have chalked up?and delighted in?a long string of personality assassinations, cutting insults and crushing putdowns. They have distorted news stories to back their hunches, ridiculed prominent women with consummate cattiness and indulged their personal likes and dislikes in puffs and snubs. But no Women's Wear vendetta, however vicious, has ever raised a controversy that can compare with Fairchild...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Press: Out on a Limb with the Midi | 9/14/1970 | See Source »

Designers, manufacturers and retailers are caught in a dilemma as fierce as that of the nation's women: between minis that may be out of date and midis that may not sell. The squeeze hurts, and those who are not directly in John Fairchild's line of fire are not afraid to yell. S. Irene Johns, president of the Association of Buying Offices, an organization that represents 25,500 stores and specialty shops across the country, insists that "by starting to push the midi last winter, Women's Wear killed not only the fall season for manufacturers but the spring...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Press: Out on a Limb with the Midi | 9/14/1970 | See Source »

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