Word: farmed
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...Today the farm-to-table ideal has spread across the nation. In its July issue, Gourmet magazine ran a feature on what it cleverly called ?plow-to-plate? restaurants from Milwaukee to Maine. These aren?t just places that source their ingredients from local farmers, as Waters and many others have urged for years. Rather, these restaurateurs actually operate farms themselves. For instance, Dan Kary, who owns Cinque Terre in Portland, Maine, farms two and a half acres that provide about 40% of the restaurant?s vegetables. On the day I spoke to him a few weeks...
...this isn?t a restaurant model for the faint of heart - Kary is often working his land after dark, by his tractor?s headlights - and I wondered if the farm-to-table concept could work for any but the most elite places...
...When the storm was still just a threatening cloud, chef Barber - who is also the center's creative director - took me down from Stone Barns' headquarters to its 23,000-sq.-ft. greenhouse. Wait a second: a greenhouse? Isn't that a copout? What about farm-to-table...
...more than half the space in the greenhouse to salad greens not only because they will flourish there without the use of chemicals but also because they draw a good price in a health-conscious place like Westchester County. (Despite the close links, Barber insists that the Stone Barns farm sells its produce to his Blue Hill restaurants at fair-market value. The farm also sells to retail customers at a small but busy on-site market...
...Barber, 36, is a wiry guy, a talker, a fuzzy-haired and friendly type. He pretty much always wears chef's whites, but he is most passionate about farms; he grew up in New York City but worked summers at his family's farm in Massachusetts. (Full circle: that farm is named Blue Hill...