Word: fashion
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Lauren have ruled American style. Although none will retire tomorrow, the triumvirate occupies so much space in department stores, on the sides of buses and consequently in the public consciousness that it has become tremendously difficult for young designers to break through. It says something about the contemporary American fashion scene that one of the most publicized stories of the past few seasons is the re-emergence of Diane Von Furstenberg, who has come back offering the same wrap dress she unveiled...
Among them are Josh Patner and Bryan Bradley, who constitute the design team Tuleh, a purveyor of fetching party wear. In business for just one year, the partners last week won a nomination for the prestigious Perry Ellis Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Sportswear too is flourishing, notably in the output of Patrick Robinson and Pixie Yates. And even ball gowns have a tasteful advocate in William Calvert, whose collection is sure to be the highlight of this week's South of Seventh event in New York City, which is intended to showcase the work...
Tuleh, like Robinson and Yates, already shows uptown at New York's semiannual collections. The team's fall '99 presentation, held in February, was a packed affair, with many of the city's major fashion editors present. Down the runway came ruffles and bold silk prints, all part of the duo's protest against fashion's I'm-off-to-my-assembly-line-job-on-a-Mars-colony strain of chic. "There is an overly intellectualized, nihilistic approach to fashion at the end of the century that is predictable and dreary," says Patner, "and why should women be dreary...
...ardent avoider of fad. A modern, never-staid classicist, he is known for his fine tailoring and use of luxurious fabrics, some of which are his own innovations. "Patrick is much more about style than trend, and the customer appreciates this," explains Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, which carries Robinson's line. "There is an integrity to his design that's very special...
...hangers," he explains. "They are about the contours of the body." Calvert has already found a fan in the eminent (and like-minded) Geoffrey Beene, a designer not known for the promiscuous use of terms like absolutely fabulous. Says Beene: "There has been a great period of mediocrity in fashion, and William is the shining light at the end of that tunnel...