Word: fashion
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...runway with pills of all shapes and sizes seemingly spilling down the fronts of their black chiffon minidresses. Pills were also strung along the gold chain handles of those famous quilted bags. It was just one small detail in a chic show, but somehow in this lackluster fashion season it resonated. Has fashion come to this: A medical emergency...
...spring 2007 collections, questions seemed to plague the posse of journalists, buyers and hangers-on who follow the biannual fashion romp through New York City, London, Milan and Paris: Who is driving fashion forward? Who is providing an idea inspirational, catchy and new enough to get people excited about getting dressed? Where is fashion going...
...even articulated gold-colored robot leggings at Balenciaga (right). There was a hint of the high-tech future in Hussein Chalayan's remote-controlled dresses, as they shifted from long to short. (Disappearing hemlines are also a trend--most are upper-thigh high). And the '80s notion that fashion will be about athletic wear in ever more technologically advanced fabrics still has plenty of currency...
...general feeling is that fashion has become so globalized and merchandised that the idea of a designer with an emotional life and the ability to communicate it to others is passé. "Fashion is now about marketing and merchandising," declares Pierre Berge, Yves Saint Laurent's business partner and a key player on the Paris fashion scene for several decades. "It is not about designer fashion. It is about [mass-market retailers like] Zara." The clothes are nice, the argument goes, but the real craft is in how you sell them...
Nevertheless, even a multibillion-dollar chain like Zara needs ideas. And a designer like Nicolas Ghesquière, who has been in fashion's driving seat of late with his razor-sharp focus on silhouette and tailoring, can still turn the business on its head. His buglike silhouette of skinny black legs and poufy miniskirts, first shown last February, has resurfaced on countless other runways this season. Fashion insiders--the people who determine which trends will make it onto department-store shelves or fashion-magazine covers and, eventually, to Zara--need a bad boy to shock them into a new look...