Word: fashion
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Kate Betts dishes the dirt on the new lineup for spring • The Three D's of Fashion For designers like Diane Von Furstenberg and Thakoon Panichgul, determination equals success- 9/11/06
Floriane de Saint Pierre, a Paris-based headhunter whose clients include Gucci Group, placed both the CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, Valérie Hermann?who came from rival Christian Dior?and its designer, Stefano Pilati. De Saint Pierre says fashion managers are hard to find because the job is paradoxical. "If management is a science that can be taught, fashion is about culture, so you need to have absorbed all the theory yet have totally surpassed it. Fashion management is about driving a brand with fast-changing products, yet it is also long-term artist management. Managers must...
...sometimes you don't. Rare among fashion's top brass is Patrizio Bertelli of Prada Group, who does not have an M.B.A., uses only Italian in a multilingual peer group and has a fiery temperament. Bertelli has proved brilliant at steering the Prada and Miu Miu brands with his wife Miuccia Prada. But acquisitions have been rockier. Following a brief honeymoon period after Prada Group acquired the majority stake in Jil Sander, the eponymous designer walked, returned, then walked for good in 2004, to be replaced by Raf Simons. (The Jil Sander company was sold earlier this year...
...managers may hold the strings, but sometimes a designer snips them, as Phoebe Philo did at Chloé when she resigned last spring. Ralph Toledano concedes that although Chloé is currently a collective endeavor by Philo's design team, a brand needs a fashion face. And the chain reaction cannot happen unless all the elements are in place...
Burke's best buddy from college days is now the CEO of a major construction company. What has changed is his friend no longer thinks Burke is nuts for entering the fashion business back in 1986. "People have realized that, if done properly, this can be very lucrative," Burke says. As for Ralph Toledano, he can't imagine using his M.B.A. in a more traditional way. "I'd be terrible in the steel industry," he says, laughing...