Word: fashionability
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Designs by the label Allerleirauh, founded in 1986 by Katharina Reinwald and Angelika Kroker, and the work of fashion photographers such as Sven Marquart and Sybille Bergemann reflected the atmosphere of decline. Clothes by Allerleirauh used mainly dark colors and lots of leather - a material that was hard to come by in the G.D.R. and that the designers would pick up straight from the manufacturers. Photos on display in the Berlin exhibition show the clothes against a backdrop of old staircases and rundown gray façades, making for a dark fairytale-like mood full of neo-Romantic pathos...
...East Berlin's independent fashion scene reached its artistic climax at the end of the 1980s, when Allerleirauh was putting on spectacular events that had little to do with conventional fashion shows. Visitors to "Free Within Borders" can watch video footage of Allerleirauh's fashion extravaganzas, which - with music composed especially for the shows and special effects including fountains of fire, fake fog and giant human "birds" flying through the air on steel cables - are best described as a mixture of apocalyptic party, theater and performance art. "It was a comment on the downfall of the G.D.R. without really knowing...
...fashion's new attitude...
...Similar endeavors to groom local talent have met with some success in the retail fashion sector - one of Dubai's chief tourist attractions. Brand-conscious punters have traditionally been the main market, but in these less extravagant times, there is greater appreciation for the local designers behind the merchandise at S*uce Boutique (pronounced Sauce). The growing number of loyal consumers has emboldened the owners to launch the S*uce Incubator, a project that recruits, manages and nurtures regional designers...
...well as devising a feasible grant system. The authority is also a driver of the U.A.E.'s participation at the Venice Biennale. In a bid to create a fresh image for the seven-member federation, DCAA director Dr. Lamees Hamdan gave Berlin-based curator Tirdad Zolghadr carte blanche to fashion an 800-sq-m pavilion into a space that expresses artistic passion. Hamdan realizes the pavilion's title - It's Not You, It's Me - may come across as brash, but "It's about us, the U.A.E., and it's unapologetic," she says. "Like it or love it, this...