Word: fashioned
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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Plenty of bidders for a fashion house with a troubled owner
...Marcel Boussac, 89, an ostentatious millionaire entrepreneur who did so well in textiles after World War I that he became known as France's "Cotton King." In 1946, seeking to revive the war-tattered clothing market, he teamed with a young designer, Christian Dior, to found a fashion house. The next year Dior presented his first collection: the long, ample "new look" that established his reputation and set fashion trends for a decade. Under the management of Jacques Rouet, now 60, it flourished, even after the death of Dior in 1957. But Boussac's textile empire, consisting...
...said of Columnist Heywood Broun that he resembled an unmade bed. This summer that dubious sartorial distinction is being emulated by fashion-conscious men and women from Fifth Avenue to Rodeo Drive. The look could be called Sloppy Chic. Its adherents insist that the clothes they wear be made of natural fibers-cotton, linen, silk-and that they look natural: unstructured, unlined, unstarched, unpressed. Their aim is to look carefree not careless, modish not messy, though the distinction may at times be more in the eye of the wearer than the beholder. "This year," says a buyer at Chicago...
Buttoned-down American men, of course, are dourly and durably resistant to the whims of fashion; but they too are succumbing in increasing numbers to the "schlepped in" look. When Wilkes Bashford, San Francisco's priciest men's store, ran full-page ads featuring a man whose linen suit looked as if it had escaped from a disaster movie, it was a sellout. Italy's Giorgio Armani is generally acknowledged to be the greatest evangelist of male unkempt. A disarming, blue-eyed Milanese, Armani, 43, is a canny tailor who knows precisely what each fabric...
Conscious dishevelment is a far cry from the bandbox-fresh, polyester-crisp image that men and women, particularly men, have cultivated for so long. Yet in a way the rumpled, crumpled look is a logical extension of the recent trend toward self-liberation in fashion. "People today are willing to be comfortable, both physically and socially," says David Tessler, owner of San Francisco's City Island Dry Goods Co. boutique. "They have no use for constraints or formality." Fashion Savant Geraldine Stutz, president of Manhattan's Henri Bendel, declares not only that "the wrinkle is the apogee...