Word: fashioned
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Lubowitz's thesis stirred some controversy in the department, since some members "didn't respect the topic," he says. Nevertheless he went ahead researching original patterns and documents of Dior's reign as fashion king of Paris in the 50s. "I was really on my own," he says. "It was difficult because I was doing a lot of empirical work from the magazines. Dior elevated fashion to an integral part of popular culture and basically saved the French economy," he adds...
Lubowitz was not lucky enough to go to Paris to do any research on the originals, but did get a grant to travel to New York to do some field work there. But he does not plan to go into fashion or fine arts as his career; he is going to medical school. "Majoring in Fine Arts was almost an indulgence," he says...
...assumption of this thesis is that fashion or dress in the twentieth century is truly an art form. The study of the history of costume encompasses many fields, such as psychology and sociology, but the aesthetic aspects of clothing have attracted little attention from critics of the arts. However, fashion should certainly be considered an art form because it is definitely an expression of the aesthetic impulses of individuals or social groups. Furthermore, since individual designers of clothing have evolved from the role of modest, nineteenth century private couturiers to world-wide dictators of the haute couture, the work...
...first high fashion style of the Fifties was actually created in 1947 when Christian Dior showed his first collection. Dior presented a silhouette which became known as the "New Look." Half-a-century's development of the square, mannish, waistless woman was relinquished in a moment for this new ideal of feminine chic. It consisted of a tiny, nipped waist, rounded (even padded) breasts, rounded hips, and skirts which usually swept as low as eight to twelve inches from the floor...
...soft drapes which held their own line without visible support--owed their qualities to the new, man-made fibers. Indeed, these models would not have been possible without the aid of such novel fabrics as featherweight holland linings and diaphanous but firm, stiffened nylon. --"The Aesthetics of Fashion" James H. Lubowitz, Fine Arts...