Word: fashioned
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Italy, Manhattan's newest locus of hip, is where modish factions of the young professional class gather in cafes to talk about movies starring Steve Buscemi and to chain-smoke as though it were Milan or 1956. Mott Street is, in other words, a place you might envision as fashion's capital of spartan black. On a northern tip, though, sits a tiny 1 1/2-year-old shop named Calypso, where, on any given weekend, stylish young shoppers slither past one another to get at a collection of near-sheer pastel sweaters, lacy skirts, candy-colored coats and dusty blue slip dresses...
...While fashion for most of the decade has been dominated by the spare chic of designers like Prada and Jil Sander, this season it finds itself in the midst of a full-scale romance revival, and women seem to be smitten. Minimalist Marc Jacobs is dabbling in pink and pleats. Tocca, a label specializing in girlish party dresses that began with a collection of 11 pieces in 1994, has evolved into a multimillion-dollar business. Jewelry is having a renaissance. "We're just all so tired of looking plain," notes Andrea Linett, a fashion writer at Harper's Bazaar...
...that is perhaps how the French have always wished it. Fashion's new womanliness has its most passionate and celebrated advocates in two young designers brought in to revivify a pair of Parisian houses famously steeped in the romantic tradition. Alber Elbaz, the creative director of Guy Laroche, and Stella McCartney, daughter of Paul and Linda and the new chief talent at Chloe, have become stars of the fashion world, with spring ready-to-wear lines aimed at women whose idea of time well spent extends beyond eating dinner at their desks. When the new Chloe collection arrived...
...installed at the house to much fanfare last year, critics of the move attributed it to her lineage. Chief among the detractors was her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who snapped to Women's Wear Daily, "I think they should have taken a big name. They did--but in music, not fashion." McCartney, despite her age (she is 26), was in fact no novice to garmentmaking. She had attended London's venerable Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the alma mater as well of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen (designers also snatched up to oversee ailing French houses). For extra...
...heart." Elbaz's clothes--pink and white dresses of layered tulle with dainty streams of sequins, billowy-sleeved jackets and Capri pantsuits--are so achingly beautiful that when the designer came to Manhattan to launch the line at a small show for select shoppers and members of the fashion press, at least one enraptured audience member actually began to tear...