Word: fashioner
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Dates: during 1950-1959
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...crises in Aqaba deterred or even interested the participants in one annual spring rite-the pilgrimage to the boulevards of Paris to examine the treasure-trove -of Paris' haute couture. For hundreds of years moralists have thundered and savants deplored the "private luxury" of fashion, but its tides have inexorably rolled on, exposing then obscuring bosoms, enhancing then suppressing derrièeres. This week the iron curtain of secrecy lifts, and U.S. women will see for the first time Fashion Dictator Christian Dior's newest enticements to planned obsolescence. See FOREIGN NEWS, Dictator by Demand...
...were shrill with the sound of American females emitting the ritual cries of greeting as they hailed each other from divan to divan. In the lush Victorian plush of Maxim's, stumpy men from Manhattan's Seventh Avenue sat heavily, resting weary feet. Fashion reporters, department-store buyers and manufacturers, they were gathered for the annual rite of Paris' spring collections -the mystic and sacred time when Paris' top couturiers reveal to a tiptoe world the latest variations and dissonances on the theme of the Eternal Feminine...
Though the $1.500,000 worth of Paris designs brought back each year by U.S. buyers are a tiny item in the U.S.'s annual $4 billion dress sales, they stir the whole massive bulk of the industry to new life. Even as U.S. women flip through the fashion magazines, other manufacturers will be studying the photographs, devising ways of changing materials, reducing fullnesses, simplifying cuts so that they can present a copy of a design they never paid for. In three months the $300 custom-made copies will have been copied in their turn to sell...
...returned to Paris in 1935 with no money but with a new interest in embroidery, which he had learned while convalescing in Majorca. A friend taught him to make fashion sketches, and, to Christian's astonishment, succeeded in selling several to a fashion house for 120 francs. "At the age of 30," says Dior, "I was about to begin my real existence." He worked successively for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong as a designer, a period interrupted by a year's service in the army in the south of France, where he mostly dug ditches on a railroad...
Fishmonger Look. At war's end, French couture was in the dangerous doldrums. New York was claiming to have supplanted Paris as the wellspring of fashion; Italian designers were asserting presumptuous claims. Rich Marcel Boussac, France's biggest owner of textile mills, became concerned. He reasoned that the prestige of Paris' couturiers directly affected the sale of textiles produced by his mills. He set out to find a. new designer who could inject fresh vitality into Paris' sluggish salons. Friends sent him Dior...