Word: fashioners
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...Fashion, in other words, is taken not to exist. But the unpleasant fact is that no reputation is immune to fashion. The art market is built on it. The French cattle painter Rosa Bonheur, a favorite of Victorian merchant princes, got ? 4,059 (then almost $20,000) for her Highland Raid in 1887; in 1952 it was resold for under ?200, or $560. Sir Edward Burne-Jones' Love and the Pilgrim, sold in 1898 for .?5,775 ($28,000), dropped to ?21 ($85) within less than 50 years. If artists who in their day were considered outstanding, whose work...
...without its "value"-which means simply price, real or hypothetical-intruding on their reflections. After Velazquez's Juan de Pareja was bought at auction for New York's Metropolitan Museum for $5.5 million in 1970, the then director of the Met insisted, in his usual peppy, overbearing fashion, that the fuss about the price was all nonsense: in ten years' time nobody would care or even remember what the Met had laid out for this "supreme masterpiece...
...come down again, her belts being tightened, loosened, tightened. He had been the witness, or victim-or even reluctant prophet-of such spurious cults as lateralism, parallelism, separatism, operational devolution, and now, if he remembered Lacon's most recent meanderings correctly, of integration. Each new fashion had been hailed as a panacea: 'Now we shall vanquish, now the machine will work!' Each had gone out with a whimper, leaving behind it the familiar English muddle, of which, more and more, in retrospect, he saw himself as a lifelong moderator. He had forborne, hoping others would forbear...
...popular in Europe after its launching there in 1977 that its appearance in the U.S. had to be delayed a year for lack of supply. As it happens, Opium is marketed by a subsidiary of the Squibb Corp., the U.S. pharmaceutical firm, which pays the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house a royalty in return for the use of its name. More galling to the French, Opium is a strong scent; it thus follows in the style of the brash and popular American perfumes, like Revlon's Charlie and Jontue, that are edging out long dominant French brands...
Some French fashion chiefs are indignant. Robert Ricci complains that the assertive American-type perfumes should "only appeal to jet-setters who want to shock." Lanvin's marketing director, Jean-Louis Delpuech, scoffs that U.S. perfume makers have tended "to go 'down market' to a type of woman who demands more smell for her money." But others are more philosophical about the demand for perfumes with staying power. Robert Young, president of Yves Saint Laurent perfumes, traces the taste for strong fragrances to the same craving for identity that makes people want designer names on their clothes...