Word: fats
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...fat milk...
...science of cuisine--like understanding why meat is best slow-cooked at 136° (higher temperatures cause the proteins to tighten up and release their juices into the pan). "The name molecular gastronomy is quite bad," says Blumenthal. But his food, despite its seemingly flagellant ingredient mixtures, is superb. The Fat Duck, Blumenthal's restaurant in Bray, 40 minutes west of London, was named best in the world by trade title Restaurant magazine last week, and if anything, the acclaim is a few years behind that accorded by his peers. "I have never eaten at the Fat Duck...
Blumenthal opened the Fat Duck in an old pub in 1995, but it didn't take off until he asked himself, Why do green beans have to be boiled in salted water? "All the books said it was a must, but I couldn't figure out why," says Blumenthal. With no cooking mentors to rely on, he cold-called Oxford University molecular-gastronomy pioneer Nicholas Kurti, only to learn that Kurti had died in 1998. So Blumenthal got the list of participants at Kurti's annual food-science conference and rang Peter Barham, a physicist at the University of Bristol...
Blumenthal now has an impressively stocked lab across the street from the Fat Duck, and he recently got a $25,000-a-year grant, for three years, from Britain's Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council to hire a doctoral student who will help him fine-tune the development of a crispy cocktail and explore the nascent area of flavor perception. "Eating isn't just taste, it's all the senses," he says. "Blindfold knowledgeable wine drinkers, and a majority can't say if they're drinking red or white, so sight matters. Sound--the crunch of a carrot--affects...
...opportunity to steer Americans away from the sugary, fatty, processed foods they consume in such quantities. "One of the biggest problems is it doesn't clearly say 'eat less,'" says Margo Wootan of the Center for Science in the Public Interest. It also says nothing about salt, saturated fat or cholesterol. Nor does the USDA have a budget to promote its new pyramid. Instead, it is relying on word of mouth from doctors and nutritionists, and marketing campaigns paid for by the food industry. --With reporting by Shahreen Abedin/New York...