Word: ferran
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...most fussed-over restaurant in the world, its 33-course meals the object of countless gastronomic pilgrimages, its 8,000 reservations per season snapped up in a single day, its edible foams and spheres now part of the contemporary culinary vocabulary. But since its famous chef, Ferran Adrià, was named a featured artist in this year's edition of Documenta, the provocative contemporary art show held every five years in Kassel, Germany...
...cold, the edible "paper" dotted with flowers, the frozen parmesan "air" that comes packed in a Styrofoam tub, and asking: Is it art or is it dinner? "We aren't saying that cooking is a new art form," says Ruth Noack, Documenta's curator. "We're saying that Ferran Adrià shows artistic intelligence." That distinction was lost last summer when director Roger Buergel announced that Adrià would be part of this summer's show, which opened on June 16 and runs through Sept. 23. Skeptics complained that embracing a cook signaled the banalization of Documenta. "Both Adri...
...anything emerged from last week's Madrid Fusion, the celebrated international conference of the epicurean avant garde, it was that algae is in vogue: Ferran Adri?, the founding genius of the new conceptual movement among chefs, wrapped a crab torso in it. Angel Leon, used it to clarify stock. And at the Porto Mui?os booth in the exhibition hall, the lechugas del mar sold like- well, hotcakes. But apart from a predominance of sea vegetables, it was hard to detect clear trends at Madrid Fusion. As some of the world's top chefs gathered to show off their stuff...
...rabbits." But if anything, "Light Sensitive" captures an art form reconnecting with its original mystery: paper, chemicals, light. Such were the essential ingredients of the early?19th century camera-less process of photograms, and by casting everyday objects in a contemporary light, current practitioners such as Christl Berg, Anne Ferran and Penelope Davis seem to reveal the very essence of the photographic process. Here light carries an almost god-like aura, peering into the most inscrutable of subjects. Even in the subtly manipulated Lauren, 2003, Petrina Hicks uses new technologies to highlight photography's old-fashioned alchemy. Left any longer...
...exclaims, pulling the hake out of the Gastrovac and plating it with a caper and red pepper broth. "It has the same sheen as it did when it was raw!" Call it the Blumenthal-Adrià effect. Ever since Europe's two famously avant-garde chefs, Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adriá, began using liquid nitrogen to freeze mousses tableside and siphons to turn squid ink into foam about five or six years ago, the walls between the laboratory and the kitchen have begun to crumble. "This is the great revolution in cooking right now: the incorporation of industrial techniques...