Word: feu
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...once one is seated, delights appear, marred only occasionally by a lax waiter or an overdone duck. There are sublimely puffy lump-crabmeat cakes and tender veal chops with morels. Not to be missed: profiteroles filled with foie gras. The kitchen also serves an original version of pot-au-feu for which the succulently moist, tarragon- scented chicken arrives with leeks and angel-hair pasta, not in the traditional bowl with soup but on a plate mantled with a cream-and-chicken- stock sauce...
HOTTEST NEWS The bistro. The food world seems to concur that this traditional favorite is back in style, but there is little agreement about what the word means. To some it stands for eateries serving such traditional French fare as coq au vin, pot-au-feu and gigot. To others a bistro is merely a cafe with quick and simple food, much of it indistinguishable from California cuisine. Symbolic of the confusion is the representation in a new book, American Bistro, by Irena Chalmers and Friends (Contemporary; $35). Cited are Kansas City's high-style American Restaurant and the posh...
...conclusion, I'm tempted to liken a viewing of House to sampling the gourmet French delicacy Pot au Feu, a tasty melange concocted by throwing every morsel of food in sight into a pot and stirring. House is horror scare 'em concocted by throwing every film cliche in sight into a pot and stirring. Pot au Feu is delicious and cheap by all accounts. House is neither. Save $5 and buy some French stew...
Ivens, who wrote the excellent Glorious Stew, whisks with authority through the steamy world of navarin, khoreshe, blanquette, ragout, jambalaya, estouffade, carbonado, col lops and pot-au-feu. She presents Italian, French and Viennese versions of Hungarian goulash, "five fragrances" stew from China, and two savory South American specialties: puchero criolla, a Latin version of New England boiled dinner, and carbonada criolla, beef stew served in a pumpkin. One notable entry is a veal stew from Jerez, Spain's sherry capital, redolent of fino; a dish from Italy is called maiale affogato, meaning drowned pork, in white wine...
...upper-class English fare-Carême, Escoffier, Francatelli and Soyer all lived for years in London-the good things today come almost entirely from peasantry and province. A well-made Lancashire hot pot, a deep casserole of lamb chops and kidneys, ranks with a French pot-au-feu. Even shepherd's pie, particularly in Garmey's jazzed-up version, can be a treat. Indeed, a number of traditional dishes are in danger of becoming fashionable. Among them: lemony Sussex Pond pudding; Hindle Wakes, a prune-flavored cold poached chicken dish; Welsh onion cake and cockie leekie (chicken...