Word: filaments
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Ever watching calories, Angelenos love to share, a practice considered cheap in New York. A typical L.A. lunch features the inevitable salad, followed by a split portion of pasta (most likely angel hair, a mere filament of carbohydrate that is a California obsession and a chef's nightmare because it overcooks so readily). Orso, a Manhattan theater-district hangout, was determined to follow its pattern of one menu of trattoria-style Italian fare throughout the day and evening when it opened in Beverly Hills two years ago. The plan failed. Too many customers wanted a feather-light lunch...