Word: filets
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Maternus, named after a 4th century German bishop, successfully combines food, service, atmosphere and personality. Its kitchen turns out such specialties as Filet Wellington, Sole Nantua and Kalbsrücken Orloff, a veal steak that serves ten. The wine cellar contains an outstanding assortment of Moselle. The tables are decorated with well-worn pewter, the five public dining rooms provide the kind of labyrinthine privacy that politicians prefer, and the two private rooms are perfect for In-timpolitik. Presiding over all is Owner-Hostess Ria Alzen, a 55-year-old divorcee of quick wit and ready warmth. Because...
...probably the closest thing the Square has to a place where you could take your parents to dinner and tell them that they're getting local color. It has everything from baked beans and franks to a five-dollar filet mignon. ZumZum is designed to be more of a meeting-place or after-the-movie snackbar. But few people would want to meet in such a clean well-lighted place; with all the sausages hanging around like overgrown tonsils it reminds me of an operating room. Also, of course, the bright lighting makes it impossible to see anyone outside...
...dollars, including onion rings and French fries and cole slaw--also ketchup, which ZumZum doesn't supply, being strictly German. (Instead they have china pots of mustard cutely labeled "Das Sweet" and "Das Hot".) For supper you can get the usual things, with hot rolls. I tried the filet mignon. Most of the artistry was on the part of the steer, not the chef, who made it medium rather than rare. Still, the meat was tender, and he makes a fine shish-kebab ($3.25) although if you want Greek food you'd do better in Central Square...
...other constant prop is an arch smirk. He prances onto the kitchen set the way Sugar Ray Robinson used to approach the ring, then pirouettes so that the tittering ladies in the studio audience can admire his costume du jour. He has 27 of them-black tie for a filet steak Washington, for example, and a kangaroo-skin bush jacket for less formal dishes. He opens with a bit of humor or reminiscence, perhaps h;s somewhat askew impression of Terry-Thomas, perhaps some war stories about his days as chief catering assistant in the New Zealand air force. After...
While President Johnson dined on julienne of raw spinach and filet mignon forestiere at a $1000 dollar-a-couple Democratic fund-raising dinner at the Century Plaza Hotel, the protestors marched to meet him from a public park one mile away...