Word: filleting
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...with produce in hand, says Alléno, "we try to imagine what Parisian cuisine would have become today if it hadn't been abandoned." One wonders why it ever was after tasting his fillet of sole with Paris mushrooms, based on the Normandy sole first served in the 1830s on Rue Montorgeuil; his lamb chops Champvallon-style, said to have been created by a mistress of Louis XIV to seduce him; or his fricassee of Gâtinais chicken with artichoke and potatoes, a modern take on the dish served in 1790 at Le Cabaret...
...rural Galicia. It's a good, dependable food source. But dependable is the word. The pig does not evoke a sense of grandeur. It is an everyday animal. And its meat is not generally considered to be glamorous or sexy. Think sexy meat and it's a big juicy fillet or beef winking up at you from the plate, next to it a decent bottle of Bordeaux. Think healthy meat, if you must, and it's a small portion of free-range chicken breast...Whatever your criterion, there's always something outgunning pork for the top spot: aristocratic meat (venison...
...draining, with places to alleviate the tension hard to find. In Kabul, NGO staff, journalists, and foreign development workers have long sought out L'Atmosphère Restaurant and Bar, latmospherekabul.blogs.com, for its convivial charms, excellent wine list (for Afghanistan) and comforting French meals - think dishes like beef fillet, smoked salmon and dill sauce or tuna steak and ratatouille followed by plates of cheese and fresh peaches in zabaglione...
...busy, bubbling kitchen, the young Scottish chef-patron Dan Hall brews up the magic that lifts the Casablanca well beyond a haunt for expats with creative pretensions to a place of pilgrimage for true foodies. A dish like slow-roasted fillet of Wagyu beef with roasted veal sweetbreads, caramelized carrot purée and a sherry vinegar gastrique may be a mouthful to order, but every bite confirms the brilliance of its conception. Plainer fare such as wild mushroom arancini with leek purée, white asparagus emulsion and cep vinaigrette showcase the intense flavors of locally grown vegetables. Hall...
...cooking challenge with the single-minded discipline usually found in élite athletes. For Kaysen, this means heading to the kitchen on his day off to sharpen skills like butchering a whole chicken. He began practicing for the Bocuse in January 2006. By November, he could skin, cut and fillet a bird in seven minutes. But he knows that isn't good enough, since every second of prep time will count. His goal is to do it in three minutes flat. With his eyes closed. "I know the anatomy of a chicken better than I know my own," he says...